The Drakensburgs

The first 250 kilometers took two hours. The next 25 kilometers took two hours too, as we bounced along the dirt road, dodging small children running after us, demanding, “Sweets! Sweets!” Martha the pediatrician cringed as we all wondered how many white people had tossed candy out car windows at these kids. Finally, we pulled into Injusuthi camp, nestled between a river and soaring cliffs in the northern part of the Drakensburgs. Having been cramped in the car, I dashed out for a run, and with the sun setting over the dramatic peaks, it made the “Top Runs of All Time” list.

The next morning, we set off in a drizzle, full of optimism that the fog would lift soon. An hour and a half later we arrived drenched at one set of caves tucked into the cliffs. You couldn’t see more than twenty feet ahead of you, which makes traversing narrow paths carved into steep mountain slopes lots of fun. With my mom as a fearless leader, we struck back out into the fog. She continued to call back to us, “Oh, I’m sure we are on a path. Definitely sure,” until we could no longer even find a place to put a foot on this so-called path. I was soaked and shivering, and we headed back along the vertiginous trail. As we headed back down to camp, the fog finally lifted and we could see the stunning valleys below.

Luckily, the next day dawned clear and dry and we joined a guide, Zizi, for a hike up to see San cave paintings. Along the way, he informed us of the importance of making sure you have good descriptions when you set off for hikes; eland (antelope) trails are often more worn than human paths, making it easy to lose track. Ah-ha!

It was a beautiful hike, although I’m fairly sure Zizi made up a good deal of what he told us about the cave paintings. We drove him back to his village afterwards, and when he reappeared in his leather jacket, faux-diamond earring, and Nikes, we hardly recognized him. Along the way, he explained aspects of village life. One of the fascinating dynamics he explained was how the community had been slow to receive development assistance from the current government, run by the African National Congress, because they had mostly been supporters of the Inkatha Freedom Party, another more radical anti-aparthied party, during the struggle.

It was a wonderful trip and Natty and I plan to return to the Drakensburgs soon.

Durban Sights

Wow! What do we see?


Victoria Market is filled with these crammed curio shops.

There is a chance Natty needs this by week's end! (Just kidding, Mom).



Beaded stuff. They do that well here.

Lily pad, Durban Botanical Gardens.

Soccer!

After generously allowing my parents an hour of rest, we scooped them up at their hotel, ate a quick dinner, and hustled off to the MTN Finals. It was the Moroka Swallows vs. the Orlando Pirates, both from Soweto, the sprawling township outside Johannesburg. We had no idea who either team was, but when we found ourselves seated in a Pirates section, we became ardent fans. Sports, like everything else here, are divided along race lines, and soccer is an overwhelmingly black sport. We fretted for a few minutes about what to do if we got lost in the huge crowd, but decided we'd have no trouble tracking each other down. I was a terrible vuvuzuela blower, and my dad put me to shame, blowing taps loudly. Apparently, we chose the right team - the Pirates won!

All Things Cape Town, Volume II

When we woke up and saw the sun shining, we hustled over to Table Mountain, as the gorgeous views are often hidden behind the "table cloth," the low covering of fog that often sits on the mountain. It was lovely, and Gail survived her fear of heights by making sure she always walked on the inside of the path. That afternoon, we wandered over to the Company Gardens in the city center, where we saw nine weddings. Yes, nine, and several of those with the more outrageous bridesmaids dresses I have ever seen. After, we stumbled upon an incredible little exhibit about Desmond Tutu and the anti-apartheid marches he lead in the 1980s. The next morning, we explored the Bo-Kaap, a Muslim community with vividly colored houses. Then, it was back to Durban, which for now, feels like home!Emerging from the dungeon. Natty was our self-declared tour guide at the Castle.

Cape Castle, the oldest building in South Africa.





Vivid colors of the Bo-Kaap.
Our car guard at the Bo-Kaap. Yes, he is carrying a sword.

Our balcony. Not a bad view.
Wedding seven.
Wedding three.
Wedding two.
City Hall.

Robben Island, the harbor, and the soccer stadium, the tiny oval near the water.



Notice my tight grip on the wall. I'm NOT going overboard.
Gail, wondering if she'll make it.

Natty, with his anxious, "I need to know how it works" look.