The Drakensburgs

The first 250 kilometers took two hours. The next 25 kilometers took two hours too, as we bounced along the dirt road, dodging small children running after us, demanding, “Sweets! Sweets!” Martha the pediatrician cringed as we all wondered how many white people had tossed candy out car windows at these kids. Finally, we pulled into Injusuthi camp, nestled between a river and soaring cliffs in the northern part of the Drakensburgs. Having been cramped in the car, I dashed out for a run, and with the sun setting over the dramatic peaks, it made the “Top Runs of All Time” list.

The next morning, we set off in a drizzle, full of optimism that the fog would lift soon. An hour and a half later we arrived drenched at one set of caves tucked into the cliffs. You couldn’t see more than twenty feet ahead of you, which makes traversing narrow paths carved into steep mountain slopes lots of fun. With my mom as a fearless leader, we struck back out into the fog. She continued to call back to us, “Oh, I’m sure we are on a path. Definitely sure,” until we could no longer even find a place to put a foot on this so-called path. I was soaked and shivering, and we headed back along the vertiginous trail. As we headed back down to camp, the fog finally lifted and we could see the stunning valleys below.

Luckily, the next day dawned clear and dry and we joined a guide, Zizi, for a hike up to see San cave paintings. Along the way, he informed us of the importance of making sure you have good descriptions when you set off for hikes; eland (antelope) trails are often more worn than human paths, making it easy to lose track. Ah-ha!

It was a beautiful hike, although I’m fairly sure Zizi made up a good deal of what he told us about the cave paintings. We drove him back to his village afterwards, and when he reappeared in his leather jacket, faux-diamond earring, and Nikes, we hardly recognized him. Along the way, he explained aspects of village life. One of the fascinating dynamics he explained was how the community had been slow to receive development assistance from the current government, run by the African National Congress, because they had mostly been supporters of the Inkatha Freedom Party, another more radical anti-aparthied party, during the struggle.

It was a wonderful trip and Natty and I plan to return to the Drakensburgs soon.